Ok, let me cut to the chase.  If you get invited to an American style barbecue in Israel, go anywhere else instead. Really, you’ll be happier. Trying to eat a lukewarm hot dog in a stale pita bread with a topping of hummus and chopped vegetables is not worthy of your efforts. It was a miracle not one person got sick. And it’s a pity dinner was so bad, because the location of this “barbecue” was one of the most beautiful in Israel.

The last trip of our pre-camp week took us to the Galilee region of northern Israel. The Sea of Galilee is a freshwater lake fed by and drained by the Jordan river. It’s the worlds lowest freshwater lake, at 750 ft below sea level, and is surrounded on most sides by tall 1500 ft mountains that go right to the waters edge.

Sea of Galilee

The Galilee has been a place of settlement for 500,000 years. Many of the important events of early Christianity took place here, and the area was a center of wealth in biblical times. It’s an area of great importance to Israel, as it is the source of freshwater for Jerusalem and points south. It’s also an area under considerable environmental pressure, as it’s level is dangerously low. Should the water level drop much more, the lake will be in danger of saltwater incursion from saltwater springs under the lake. The weight of the freshwater is all that keeps them from flowing in now. Fish lovers alert- this is the home of Tilapia (St. Peters fish), which has become  a popular product of the aquaculture industry.

The Sea of Galilee is bordered on the east by the Golan Heights, an area of great strategic importance to Israel and the center of a great deal of conflict. Since the ‘67 war is has been settled and governed by Israeli civilian authorities. It’s occupation is highly contested by Syria and Lebanon, and the area has many UN troops stationed there, as well as Israeli Defense Forces. It’s been in the news frequently as the Israeli government has been pressing the UN to modify Israel’s right to investigate potential Hezbollah strong houses without prior notice to Lebanese forces.

Our trip included a stop at a Druze village on Mt. Carmel for lunch with a Druze family. The Druze are a a religious minority in Israel, who have a 1000 year old religion that believes in Monotheism and reincarnation. In Israel, they are citizens, and serve the requisite 3 years of military service. They are well regarded amongst the Israelis and well integrated into Israeli society. There are approximately 750,000 t0 2,000,000 Druze worldwide, with 118,000 in Israel and 20,000 in the US.

Isifiya

In Middle east fashion, we were shown warm hospitality, and after a brif introduction to the Druze, we were served a delicious meal of fresh flat bread, salads and sausages, followed by hot sweet tea.

Lunch is Served

My fellow travellers enjoyed the lunch, devouring the first tray and most of the second. The young fellow on the left and I had a traditional (Connecticut) discussion of the merits of the various pizza restaurants in New Haven. Sort of strange, but comforting in an odd way.

Big Eaters

Following lunch we continued on to the water park in Tiberius, at the south end of the Sea of Galilee. Boat rides, swimming in the warm lake, Frisbee and the water slide provided a relaxing afternoon enjoyed by all.

Bathers

Water Slide

After the completely forgettable, highly un-digestable dinner, we concluded the pre-camp week by breaking up into groups and discussing the experiences we shared and the travels we took. A nice end to a very busy week. A 2 hour bus ride brought us back to our lodgings at midnight.

Bonfires

You are now entering the West Bank

Our trip to the Dead Sea and Masada started with the usual stop and go grind up the hills through Jerusalem. The first new scenery began immediately upon the decent from Jerusalem as we passed through an area of the West Bank into the rift valley that separates Israel from Jordan. The landscape changed immediately from the lush greenery of Jerusalem to brutal, arid desert within a short span of a few miles. As we descended from the 2500 ft high hills to the sea level mark, and finally to the 1200 ft below sea level floor of the rift valley, the temperature soared to 105 °.

Sea Level-Halfway there

Along the side of the road were shacks housing Bedouins, who we saw herding goats or walking along the side of the highway. We stopped at a service area for refreshments, and the kids took advantage of the short camel rides available to them. Some advice: don’t hang around downwind of a camel.

DesertTrans

Just Friends

The Dead Sea is the lowest point on the surface of the earth. It is bordered by high cliffs pockmarked with caves, some of which had provided shelter to monks and other recluses over the millennia. Our destination was a small beach which provided towels, showers, refreshments, sulfur baths, mud massages, and changing rooms. And of course, the big attraction was the dead sea itself.

Skin Treatment at 105°

We were warned the day before not to shave, because the salt water was so concentrated it would burn the small nicks and cuts. Let me tell you, I found cuts I never knew I had. After doing the waddling in the mud, floating high in the sea, showering and changing. I was ready for a nap. Not going to happen. We immediately proceeded down the road to visit Masada, which is a 1200 meter high Mesa in the desert.

DesertTrans at Masada

Masada

We ran through the beautiful visitors center (no time to stop-move it move it!) and caught the cable car to the top. Soaring over the reddish-tan desert below, we saw people winding their way down the Snake Trail back to their cars.

The Snake Trail Down

Top of Masada

Once on top, we spent an hour touring the ruins of Herod’s Fortress, and the various forts and shelters left over the millennia.

Model of Herod's Fortress at Masada

Herod's Fortress Ruins-looking down from the top of Masada

This fortress was actually built. Herod was motivated by two factors, his fear of an uprising by his Jewish subjects and the possibility of an attack by Cleopatra’s Egyptian forces. Construction of the luxurious fort took place between 37 and 31 BCE. Here is a photograph of the ruins. Some of the original Mosaic floors are still visible. Herod never needed the refuge the fortress provided, and it was occupied by a Roman garrison after his death in 4 AD.During the second Jewish revolt, Masada was taken from the Romans by the Jewish Zealot Maccabees forces, and held until their defeat in 74 AD by Roman general Flavius Silva. It took 10,000 Roman troops more than three years to defeat the Maccabees. Silva constructed a siege wall around the Mesa to prevent the escape of the Jews, and also established eight army camps around the base of Masada. In order to breach the fortress walls, he constructed an assault ramp from the valley floor to within 150 feet of the top of the fortress casement on Masada’s west side, and built on top of this ramp a siege tower with flamethrowers, battering rams and catapults. The remains of this ramp are still in place today, and form part of the walking path down the 1200 ft high western side of Masada.

“Josephus described the dramatic last hours of Masada, including Eleazar’s speech to the Jewish defenders and the mass suicide of 960 men, women, and children. By lot ten men were chosen to kill all the others. Then among those ten, one was chosen to kill the other nine, set fire to the palace, and then kill himself. This tragic tale was preserved and told to Josephus by two women who survived by hiding with five children in the underground aqueducts.

The only other inhabitants of Masada were a group of Byzantine monks that established themselves there in the fifth or sixth century AD. After this, the location of Masada was forgotten, and it was not correctly identified until 1838 by two American travelers.

Various explorers continued to make discoveries at Masada until the 1960s, when the first complete, organized archaeological expedition took place under the leadership of Yigael Yadin and the direction of the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, the Israel Exploration Society, and the Department of Antiquity of the Ministry of Education and Culture.

The symbol of the Jewish freedom fighters with their families choosing death over enslavement to the Romans continues today to be a legend very much alive in the identity of the Jews. Israeli school children learn about and visit the site as part of their curriculum. Until recently, new members of the Israeli Defense Force were sworn in atop Masada. Today the beautiful remains of the Herodian structures and the haunting ruins of the Roman camps and siege ramps, as well as the symbol of fierce determination and courage embodied in the slogan “never again”, draw tourists to Masada’s mighty form.”

Reference: Y. Yadin, Masada, 1966

At sunset, we attended a service lead by Rabbi Irwin Kula, who brought up some very interesting points regarding the sacrifices made by the Macabbian rebels who slew their families and themselves, rather than to be taken by the Roman Legions. One point which really seemed to resonate with the kids, was that we may be witnessing in our time the end of traditional rabbinical Judaism, and that the religion is in a constant state of evolution. He emphasized that some of the disconnection many modern Jews feel with their religion is a good thing, in that it motivates them to seek meaningful experiences that will move the religion forward. He made a very strong point that if only one form of religion was chosen, and it was wrong, then the religion reaches a dead end. By example he discussed the mass suicide that happened at Masada, and indicated that since other Jews at the time chose other paths, the religion survived, rather than dieing with the Maccabees in 74AD.

We started on our decent by foot using the remains of a ramp built by the Romans to lay siege to the fort. An easy 20 minute hike brought us back to the buses, and a drive through the beautiful desert sunset to a fabulous dinner hosted by a Bedoin community, complete with belly dancing (which quickly degenerated into hip-hop) so much for the joys of globalization.

A little Nosh

Light Entertainment (photo courtesy of Jason Schulman)

How surreal. Our first road trip. A busload of junior athletes on the way to Ben Guvrim. Not just a bus, but a time machine.

The paradox of Israel is that it is very modern western country, in a very, very old western landscape. Every where you go, history is just below your feet. You can really feel the weight of history here. Not the short time history that dates back to the colonial era, but the history that goes back to biblical times and beyond. One instance: along route, our guide tells us to look at the hill on our right-that’s where the Philistines were camped itching for a fight. Look to the left, that hill is where the Hebrews were camped. See that stream- that’s where David picked up the rock to kill that old Goliath when they met in the valley to fight it out. Now there’s a super highway running through it, and the stream passes under the road in a culvert. Mind boggling. Viewed at 70KMH while listening to Dire Straights on the stereo.

The Tell

Our first stop was the Tell at Ben Guvrim. It’s a national park and archeological site with caves, burial chambers, an excavated villa, and a spectacular bell cave (which is where the stone was quarried). It’s sited on the highest foothill in the area, with a commanding view. It also guards the south-eastern approach to Jerusalem, and has been the site of civilization and conflict for centuries. Around the time of the Maccabian rebellions (about 180 BC), it was a thriving city of 20, 000 people. People in the city lived in houses, and worked in excavated cellars to stay cool.

The area is full of small man made caves dating back thousands of years. They have been excavated in modern times for archeological research, and many are now open to touring with a guide. The kids with some apprehension descended into a three foot hole in the ground and then down a ladder for a little adventure. Steve, the 6′6″ basketball coach and I stayed on the surface since the short and narrow passages were too small for us modern men.
We did take part in touring the next area, which was an excavated 2000+ year old villa. Many of the stone walls were still standing, and the large cool cellars provided
some relief from the sun and heat above. A Carob tree provided a light snack for the more adventurous. Not Godiva, but it tasted a little like chocolate.

Bell Cave at Ben Guvrim

Our last stop in the area was an enormous bell cave, which was actually a the quarry that the stones of the city were cut from. The stones were removed carefully preserving the roof structure, and providing a very large area for shelter and storage. Really amazing to experience the vast room carved out of the live rock.

We headed back north to Latrun, which is the home of the Israeli armored forces museum and memorial. A large memorial wall listing the names of fallen Israeli soldiers is surrounded by examples of armored vehicles from years past to the current day. Latrun is the site of a British Fort and prison turned over to the Arab Legion when the British left in the 40’s. Many bitter battles were fought over the fort until Israel finally won possession in the 7 day war of 1969. Way back in history, Latrun, in the Ayalon Valley was the site of a battle in which Joshua defeated the Amorites, and many years later Juda Maccabi established his camp to prepare for battle with the Greeks.

Latrun

Latrun is an area of great strategic importance, as it is the gateway of the western approach to Jerusalem. (Link to Wikipedia)

Our guide gave the kids something to think about on the way home as he discussed that at their age, kids in Israel weren’t thinking about college or leaving home, but instead were deciding what part of the armed forces they would be spending the next few years in. Military service is mandatory for all. A sobering thought for the 4th of July.

Lastly, lest we forget the  impact of globalization, a familiar site:

The Golden Arches

Kfar Maccabiah

After a short ride from the airport, I arrived at the Kfar Maccabiah hotel, sports and conference center, in the town of Ramat-Gan. I made the mistake of saying to an Israeli gentleman sharing the ride that it looked like a nice little town. I was corrected, it is actually the fifth largest city in Israel with a population of 250,000 people. I haven’t left the hotel grounds yet, but plan to do a little exploring today.

The hotel is nice, modern, wireless internet and High-Def TV in the rooms. The room is small for two guys over 6′ to be sharing, and reminds me of a hotel or two I’ve stayed at in London. An important exception is that the AC here works really well, in London, they never heard of AC.

I’m starting to recover from jet lag after pretty much being up for 30 or so hours. Got a good night sleep and work up a bit groggy, but the coffee (strong) and breakfast did the trick. The food here is very simple, with an emphasis on very nice salads, lot’s of vegetables both raw and cooked, and great fresh fruits, cheeses and breads. Pretty easy to stay on a healthy diet, which is  a real plus. Today is Shabbat, which is treated as a day of rest. Barry (Gurland) and I scouted locations for the upcoming team shots and portraits which we will shoot starting Monday. The touring begins in earnest tomorrow, so stay tuned for more interesting subject matter.

Day one was spent in travel. An early flight from Fort Lauderdale brought me to Newark by 10AM. Maccabi USA had a greeter, Alan Sherman, directing traffic. After getting flight receipts and a short wait in line, and a  fair amount of exercise for all to keep their luggage moving, we presented our credentials to representatives of El AL. We were asked questions relating to our belongings, as well as if we spoke Hebrew or Yiddush, had family or friends in Israel. I was asked if I knew my hebrew name (which i did!)as well as my Temple affiliation and frequency of attendance. All went well, and we proceeded to baggage checkin.

Just before take off, these Hassidic Gentlemen held a service at the airport.

Hassid's Praying

I’m writing this about 2 hours into the flight. The plane is an aging 747 chock full of Maccabi athletes, coaches, trainers and staff, as well as a smattering of Hasidic Jews, with wives and children. Dinner was very definately airline food. Not worth writing about. I’m seated next to Ed, a wrestler from Texas, and Josh, a gymnest from Longmeadow Mass. Ed was born in Israel and has been back a few times. It’s Josh’s and my first trip.

The flight attendants have just shut all the window shades. Looks like it’s time to start resetting the biological clock. Next stop, Tel Aviv.

ps-looks like all the praying paid off-nice trip and a safe landing at Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv

Ben Gurion

Barry Gurland

After meeting a gentleman by the name of Barry Gurland, who may or may not be a long-lost relative through a distant ancestor, I agreed to travel to Israel as a volunteer with the US Maccabi team, as one of four team photographers. The photographs I’ll be taking will be used for the publicity of the games, as well as a source of revenue for the organization through sales of images and products using those images.

The Maccabi games are an international event similar to the Olympics involving Jewish athletes from 60 countries. Since 1932, the Maccabi games have been held every four years. This is the 18th Maccabi games event.

Our trip begins in earnest with a flight to Israel from Newark via ElAl airlines, which should be a 10 1/2 hr non stop flight. (Insert God-willing here).
We will be spending the first week in pre-camp, which will involve spending time with fellow team members, touring the entire country, learning to love falafel,  and acclimating to the time and climate differences. More on this after arrival.

This link is to a Map of Israel, from Microsoft, so you may follow the travels.